Between the great division of Astraka

I was sitting at home, reading articles in Discover Greece magazine, when I saw the towers of Tymfi Mountain and I became hypnotised. The mountain is part of the bigger mountain massif Pindus in the region of Epirus, north-west Greece. An hour passed like a minute while I was searching the web and learning about what we can do there. In my mind, I was confident that we needed to explore different mountains and rock faces to test ourselves and see how we move in an unknown environment, and that is when I became very motivated to explore deeper and eventually go there with my climbing partner, Radovan.

Tymfi has a lot of places where we can challenge ourselves, from the dramatic cliffs of Gamila to the rock face of Astraka peak. I spoke with our friend from Meteora, Alex, about the rock face of Astraka peak, since it was closer to the villages in the valley, although still high enough to give us the absolute freedom and remoteness. He replied that he had not climbed there yet, but he was very happy that we knew about that forgotten wall, and he sent me 7.5 links with limited information about the climbing routes in the face. The days have passed as we plant the seed in our minds — going to Astraka, north-east rock face and climb.

I have always believed that we need to think and visualise our projects in the mountains in detail so that our brain slowly prepares for the real experience and to do things for the right reasons. We found a short description by two Germans of the route we chose to climb, and they explained some key parts of the route very well, although we have a Greek topo of the route. We chose to climb the route Megalo Schicma. It is a 475-meter-long route with constant difficulty of V+. The name of the route is logical since it follows a huge dihedral from the bottom to the top of the rock face, and from afar, it is obvious that a great division happened between the left and the right part of the rock.

We are driving slowly through Skopje at 03:00 AM heading east and then south, while we witness the parallel universe we live in, compared to the people going home from parties and clubs. Our journey to Astraka had started. Almost three mountain passes, several valleys, plenty of bridges, a couple of cities, one border and 1000 songs till we reach the village of Megalo Papigko at 12 pm, our starting point. All the bones in my body sounded like popcorn when I lifted myself up and took a deep breath, sharing the celebration with the rest of the team, the freedom from the car after 7 hours in it. I hope the car did the same. Four of us prepared the backpacks for moving, and it would remain an enigma about what kg each of our backpacks is if Nadica didn't take out a measuring device, and we see that we all have equal weight in our backpacks. All happy, we started our hike to the Astraka mountain hut during the warmest period.

It is 3 pm and we are placing our tents close to the mountain hut. From here, we can see the shoulder of the rock face of Astraka, it was magical. All together we went for a short hike to find the right spot where we could see our route and investigate the details and the unknowns we had in our minds. We reach the lake of Drakolimni, where the rock of Astraka has spread its wings, all open. I took the small binocular from my pocket and shot with my eyes at the Megalo Schisma, our line. Playing ping-pong with Radovan, giving and taking the binoculars while we discuss the potential problems with the snow on the route. There were a few spots with snow on the route itself, which raised questions in our heads. The sun was very low on the horizon when we talked with the janitor of the mountain hut. “Megalo Shicsma is a very traditional route. Almost no pitons. Very loose terrain. But go—try it.”. If I remembered what my teachers in school had said, as I remember the words of the janitor, I would now be a very successful businessman. I zipped the tent for the last time that day, as no more natural light was present.

The next morning, horses galloped past our tents like a living alarm clock. After we ate our eggs and oats, we geared up and went for another adventure in our lives. We were walking below the rock face, searching for our route and its entrance. Big stones broke apart at the entrance, and snow blocked our way. Radovan said it could be better, but that is it. After a short talk and looking at the route nearby, it was time to put on our gear and start climbing.

The first pitch was very tricky, wet, and unprotected. Radovan did the moves very gently and precisely, as I remember a quote from a book, “ a well begun is half done”. I tried to remember how he moves so I can replicate the movement later on. After less than 50 meters, I heard Radovan saying “off-belay”. It was 10:30 am or something when I started climbing. I hope I did the same moves as Radovan did in the beginning, although my mind was dealing with other things. The next two or three pitches were smooth, but risky enough to keep us very focused and gentle. We switched the lead, I took the next easy part up to the third anchor and started belaying Radovan. As always, he moved fast by moving slow. This is something I admire about him and his climbing skills.

Now, we reach the point where we need to traverse the route by going left to a slab section, where in the German description it was written that it is very loose. They weren’t kidding. I was at the anchor, and behind me was the entire mountain of Tymfi, like a prehistoric dream — A beautiful landscape formed millions of years ago at the bottom of the ocean. Our bodies were dancing stars in the night sky on the rock. The next pitch, the slabs. Here, we knew that the terrain had constant difficulties with almost no protection. Radovan took the lead, followed by his intuition at the crucial turns and moves. Again, I was watching the moves and the leg placement, remembering to myself that at every place, and at any time we have the chance to learn, we should never stop learning. This pitch took us some time as we progressed up to the next anchor. From here, the route followed a big dihedral in a logical direction.

I led the next pitch to a cave where I felt like Batman, sitting there and waiting for my reborn. Above me, there were stones stuck between the dihedral, forming a scary roof. Here, I was really concerned about our next direction because it was not logical to proceed up on that cave's roof. It seemed impossible until Radovan showed up from the bottom and entered the cave. I asked him, “What do you think, where next?” he replied “, Here, up”. I immediately understood the next moves, and I saw them very clearly. What was to my eyes before telling me that? He opens the legs, places the body correctly, puts the gear in the cracks and makes the move. I did the same after.

Now we are at the halfway point of the route, at the second snow section—as we called it—after analysing the route with our binoculars the day before. We were expecting this snow to see if it would give us easier or harder terrain. Unfortunately, it was harder, but at some point, it was easier because the snow was so hard that we used it as a handhold and foot placement. From time to time, birds were flying above and near us, as if they were checking if we came in peace. And, they were right, we came in most imaginable peace, not only to spread, but to receive. The climbing became smoother and smoother as if we were climbing in our backyard. It seems that we have got used to the environment enough.

The sun passed lunchtime, and we hadn’t eaten anything so far, except for drinking our 500 ml bottles of water. We were using only one backpack, switching the carrying between those who were climbing second. After 6 hours of climbing, it was finally time to eat the chocolate bar that I had with me as a gift from Kate. I can still feel it in my mouth. Refreshed and motivated, we continue climbing, doing the moves properly and safely, as we are already high enough that we can see the summit. However, now is the time when one must be completely present and focused on every piece fo stone that shakes, every handhold that we choose, leg that we place and gear that we use.

The only way out is through. Climbing the next pitches in a smooth style made us confident in our decisions. The terrain became easier, but the rocks were much looser. Placing the last piton in a solid rock to make an anchor gave me a feeling of relaxation after 9 hours of climbing. Radovan was coming up, stopping from time to time and smiling, looking at the sunlight at the exit of the rock face. We switched some gear, and Radovan took the last pitch to the end of the route, shouting again, “off belay”. I went up to him, leaving behind a solid traditional climbing experience. The only timeline that used to matter was the one you were living.